Gogyo is a new restaurant on Albion Street, occupying the premises that was once Salaryman. Similar décor to its previous home, it is reflective of some stylish and minimalistic interiors you will find in the classy restaurants in Japan. There’s smaller tables, higher bar tables or you can share a long communal dining table with friends or other diners.
Gogyo has a fully equipped bar at the main entrance, with plenty of whisky, sake and umeshu. We are greeted with a welcome drink, a yuzu citrus jelly cocktail that is refreshing and a perfect start to the night.
Gogyo is part of the same restaurant group as Ippudo, Gogyo arriving in Australia with a reputation for quality, having popular restaurants in Japan and Hong Kong.
Gogyo is renowned for its charred Ramen, but they do also serve a variety of other Japanese dishes as well. It is different to other Ramen restaurants. If burnt right, the miso broth retains a umami flavor (the fifth taste after ‘bitter, sour, sweet and salty). The black Ramen dishes which Gogyo are famous for, include the Kogashi Miso or Kogashi Shoyu and these are what the hype is all about. Made by heating lard at high temperatures, adding miso paste (Miso) or soy (Shoyu) and the chicken broth. This is comfort food, a large bowl filled with a rich smokey black broth, a wealth of noodles topped with pork belly chashu and umami egg. This is a meal you will be extremely satisfied with. You’ll also appreciate the bib which you receive to protect your outfit from the splash of broth as you eat. Note, don’t wear a white top.
We have long been fans of the regular Tonkotsu Ramen, and order a bowl of this as well, made from pork bones, and the broth filled with noodles, pork belly chashu and an umami egg as well. You can literally see the flavour floating in the bowl, it was a little oily in texture. They also serve a Chilli Shoyu or a Veggie soba if those take your fancy.
It is not all about ramen, the a la carte menu is definitely worth checking out. There were a number of dishes available that are equally superb. Goma kingfish with Japanese tahini sauce, red shisho, shichimi pepper and plated with nori.
The ‘Japanesian Coleslaw’ is crunchy and refreshing with yuzu dressing, hakusai, Japanese herbs, mint and tobikko.
One of the absolute standouts include the ‘Crackling Piggy Roll’, a Japanese butter roll with a moist pork that is also crispy on top, with their own original BBQ sauce and mustard, this was melt-in-your-mouth amazing. We could have eaten many more of these mini rolls.
The Nasu Dengaku, or tempura eggplant, was a generous size, served with a red miso sauce. This is always a popular choice of ours.
Another amazing dish was the Wagyu flank Sumiyaki fillet had a plate full of medium rare meat sliced and topped with shiso butter and mushrooms. This was one of the favourites of the night and we would certainly order it again.
The cocktails were very good, prepared with sophisticated flavours that work, without being too over the top. Sampling the Ladyboss (Yuzushu, Cointreau, lemon, sour) as well as the Businessman (whisky, rosso, cherry) and The No.5 (Gin, Chambord, tonic). They also serve Japanese beers including Asahi on tap, there are also wines and other drinks, making it a great place to enjoy a meal and drinks with friends.
Prices are extremely reasonable, most ranging between $3 and $25, with only the Wagyu Flank costing $32 (but it is worth the price tag). The Kogashi Ramen only cost $18 which is good in this day and age for a huge bowl of Ramen.
The hospitality here is extremely welcoming, we are greeted warmly, settled to a table and offered drinks. They explain each dish comprehensively, promptly remove completed plates and top up water and offer drinks as needed. The staff are extremely friendly and efficient, true to what we know of most Japanese establishments. This restaurant is worth of the hype and we are sure it will be as popular as it is in its other locations.
52-54 Albion St, Surry Hills NSW 2010